4. The Crousseau

Probably there are few other words in the language which awaken such delighted response in feminine hearts as "trousseau." It announces, first of all, that a young woman is preparing for marriage. It implies that she will have the loveliest underthings as well as outer costumes that she has ever had and that she can possibly afford. It means, too, that she will have the joy of shopping, not only for her­self but for her new home—and everyone knows what shopping means to a woman! While in an older age the bride's dowry was the most important aspect of her preparation for her new life, in our modern life the trousseau has largely supplanted the dowry.

Webster gives the following definition: "Trousseau—a bundle, bride's personal outfit, as of clothes, jewelry. To be distinguished from dowry which means the money, goods, or estate which a woman brings to her husband in marriage." Our modern, practical inter­pretation of trousseau includes some of the aspects of the dowry for it now includes in addition to clothes and luggage, silver, glass, china, linens, pots and pans and other kitchen equipment. Furthermore, modern practice prescribes a trousseau for the groom as well as for the bride. A personal trousseau of clothes and luggage, to be sure, but nevertheless a trousseau. And while the groom is not expected to provide any of the household trousseau the bride will bring with her, his taste and advice should be considered, and on occasion they may buy some of it together. So Henry need not be excluded from all discussion of Jane's trousseau although proverbially her personal trousseau is an unknown quantity to him until the honeymoon. Of course some of the household as well as personal trousseau is often included as shower or wedding gifts.

Question 1: Where does Jane begin in planning and acquiring her trousseau?

Answer: Some girls begin with a hope chest long before they are engaged. So Jane may have begun even before she met Henry. Usually the trousseau is planned for and budgeted, and shopping started immediately after the engagement is decided, even though the wedding date may be set for two months to two years later.

Question 2: In planning their personal trousseaus, for how long ahead should Jane and Henry prepare?

Answer: Plan on the basis for enough for the first year of marriage.

Question 3: How should they plan their going away costumes and honeymoon clothes?

Answer: The going away costumes as well as the honeymoon clothes will be influenced by the time of year when the wedding is held, and the type of place in which the honeymoon will be spent. The honeymoon clothes should be planned most carefully—remem­ber they have to be packed and carried someplace. The honey­moon will be much smoother if the bride and groom "travel light."

Question 4: What should be included in the personal trousseaus?

Answer: Personal trousseaus include underclothes, other clothing, accessories and luggage.

Question 5: When should Jane begin assembling her lingerie?

Answer: As soon as the engagement is announced even though it may be well in advance of the wedding date. Remember that many articles will be received as engagement and shower gifts.

Question 6: What is a minimum list for lingerie?

Answer: It is, of course, difficult to give even a minimum list which will fit the needs of everyone since much depends upon where the honeymoon is to be spent, and what kind of living arrangements will be made after the honeymoon as well as the kind and extent of entertaining to be done during the first year of marriage. The following list is a fairly comprehensive minimum one:

Wedding ensemble consisting of: bridal negligee

nightgown slip

panty or step-in

1 tailored crepe or sheer wool robe

1 warm robe

l pair lounging pajamas

l breakfast or "brunch" coat

l hostess gown

3 nighties (in addition to bridal nightie), lace trimmed

3 tailored nighties—or pajamas, short or long as preferred 6 slips or petticoats—some light, some dark, including

 one full petticoat, 2 half slips

6 nylon briefs

3 girdles—possibly one of them a panti-girdle

l evening girdle

3 bras

This list may, of course, be varied, according to need, taste and budget. The following discussion may be helpful in making selections—The traditional wedding ensemble may be white or any pastel. Above all it should be feminine and flattering. Nylon is a favorite fabric for the ensemble because it is fragile looking and yet practical. Even "shorties" are now being made glamor­ous. All this is true, too, for the other nightgowns.

For any overnight traveling by train, plane or ship, a dark tailored robe and dark tailored pajamas are essential. If you like to breakfast in your room you will want to be sure of having a breakfast coat that is opaque but which may be either short or long. Also if you like to dine in your room you will want a becoming hostess gown. This, of course, is useful later at home for entertaining. You should also consider some of the crisp, inexpensive cotton housecoats, preferably short, to wear for breakfast when you return home. It is likely that in these days you will not have a maid to prepare breakfast and you will want breakfast wear that is as practical as it is becoming. It is most important to look fresh, immaculate and your prettiest every morning. If you are going somewhere cool for your honeymoon, you will want to take your warm robe with you; otherwise, leave it at home for use in the winter months—unless, of course, you live in a warm climate that would make one superfluous in any case.

As for your assortment of nightgowns, you can, of course, let your taste dictate, but remember that nylon makes life easier for you when it comes to laundry! Most people wear the same kind of nightgowns summer and winter except that "shorties" have grown exceeding popular for warmer weather. So it is a good idea to have some of your nighties long and some short. But do have them all as pretty and feminine as you can find.

Your selection of slips and petticoats depends upon your selection of clothes for your trousseau. Your trousseau swirl should be as feminine and luxurious as you can afford. This may be had in nylon which is durable, and simple to launder, but silk is loveliest. Perhaps you would like, too, some of the new cotton slips which are easy to care for and do not require ironing.

Briefs should be nylon. The lace trimmed ones are, of course, the loveliest.

As for girdles and bras, we suggest that you be sure to have as many as needed to conform the figure to the different types of silhouettes in the wardrobe and have sufficient supply to allow for rinsing out between wearings. A longer girdle is required for a sheath skirt to hold the thighs firm. Panti-girdles can be worn under bouffant skirts, slacks and slim pants. Bras can be purchased to conform to every kind of neckline—strapless, back­less, halters. A suit requires a bra with a more definite contour than a sweater which should be worn over a softer contour. For diaphram control there is a strapless bra and girdle combination.

Question 7: What other clothing, exclusive of bridal attire should be included?

Answer: A good, basic list would include:
Fur coat (optional) or a little fur jacket, stole, skins, etc.
Cloth coat—dressy
Cloth coat—sports
Raincoat and umbrella
Going-away suit—traditionally any color except black; it can be
tailored or dressy
Daytime suit—dressmaker type, tailored or sports 4 to 6 blouses—tailored or soft and feminine, or sport, depending
upon the type of suits
 l or 2 sweater sets

1. good skirt
2. or more everyday skirts (many girls like to wear them around the house instead of house dresses)

4 to 6 aprons
l black cocktail dress for hotel dinner-dancing on honeymoon
1 daytime dress for luncheons and sightseeing
l pair of slacks

Swim suits or ski clothes as needed

l short evening dress or more if the honeymoon plans include many evening parties, such as shipboard cruise l formal evening dress if your plans provide an occasion for it Shoes to match costumes: in addition—

i pair white mules for bridal negligee and nightie

l pair mules to match tailored robes

1. dozen pairs of stockings—colors to harmonize with costumes
   (but remember the economy of buying several pairs of one
   color to match, as runs occur!)
2. pairs of evening stockings

Walking shoes or loafers, depending upon plans Swim shoes if, for instance, you are planning a seashore honey­moon

Gloves, hats and bags according to taste and needs of honeymoon
Jewelry

Jewel case

Cosmetics (see list under following discussion)

l dozen white linen handkerchiefs

3 or 4 scarfs, including 1 filmy evening scarf

l evening wrap for summer

l evening coat (if your wardrobe does not include a fur coat or jacket; or in addition to, if the budget permits)

Question 8: What general points should Jane keep in mind con­cerning her trousseau clothes?

Answer: The following basic points are well to keep in mind not only for the trousseau but whenever Jane is planning her ward­robe:

1. Unity of color: if she selects one basic color such as navy, grey or brown, she will find that her clothes can be worn together with harmony and that the same accessories will augment more than one costume.Simplicity of design will lend itself to more versatility and adaptability than over-elaborate or fussy clothes, and may be worn for more occasions.
2. The best quality will in the end be the most economical because of longer wear. Also the best quality clothes are usually cut so well that they retain style long beyond less expensive selections. If the budget will not permit the best quality in all clothes, cut down elsewhere but buy the very best coats and suits you can possibly afford.
3. Buy attractive, gay accessories—hats, gloves, jewelry, scarfs, belts. These will change the appearance of your basic suits and dresses and create the effect that your wardrobe includes many more costumes than it actually does.
4. Further to give your wardrobe versatility and variety, use mix and match separates.
5. Select styles that not only are suitable for your height, weight and proportions, and colors that complement your own coloring, but are those in which you feel happy and comfortable. If you feel best in tweeds and knitted suits and dresses, stress these in your wardrobe, providing other clothes only for those
   occasions demanding them. If you prefer softer, more femi­nine fashions, have more dresses and fewer suits. In any event, and above all, keep the informal sports items such as slacks, pedal pushers, jeans and shorts in their place—active sports, lounging, housework or outdoor work.
6. Make color and your accessories and jewelry work for you. Even in this hatless era, remember that a dashing hat, a flattering hat, can perhaps give you more confidence, more air, than any other item in your wardrobe. These days costume jewelry is acceptable on most occasions except with formal
   evening gowns. However, select good costume jewelry, even if you have fewer pieces.

Note: An inclusive list of cosmetics cannot be given since each indi­vidual has her own brand and own requirements. The following items will be found useful in most situations:

1. Cleansing cream
2. Foundation cream (for those who use one)
3. A skin lotion or mildly astringent lotion such as witch hazel
4. Face powder—usually a daytime and an evening color
5. Lipstick—2 or more colors
6. Perfume
7. Cleansing tissues
8. Absorbent cotton
9. Soap
10. Bath or dusting powder
11. Bath oil (usually requires less space for packing than bath salts)
12. A deodorant cream or powder
13. Tube of vaseline
14. Face cloths—also an extra towel or two even though trains and hotels supply them
15. Tooth paste and brushes
16. Manicure implements
17. Hand cream or lotion
18. Sun tan lotion, oil, if it is a summer honeymoon

And don't forget a small sewing kit and assorted safety pins!

Question 9: What should Henry consider in assembling his trous­seau?

Answer: Good appearance, comfortable fit, and serviceability are es­sential in men's clothing. It is wise for the groom to list what he needs as an average wardrobe, check what part of this list he has that he will continue to use, and fill in with new purchases to complete the list. He may need to add to his average list any special items that he will require for the honeymoon.

Question 10: What might Henry consider a good, basic list? Answer: His basic list should include:

1 overcoat (depending upon the season and locality)

1. raincoat
2. winter weight suits (wool)

2 summer weight suits (silk, gabardine, or nylon cord, etc.) 1 sports jacket

1. or 2 pairs of slacks
2. sweaters—i sleeveless and l long-sleeved

Sports clothes as needed—Bermuda shorts, swim trunks, ski
clothes
Dinner clothes—winter or summer or both, as needed Hats
Shoes and rubbers Gloves
l dozen socks

1. set braces
   cuff links
   studs
   neckties
   scarfs
2. dozen handkerchiefs
   belts

6 pairs of shorts
2 pairs of pajamas
14 shirts—8 day shirts, 3 sports, 3 dress
1 flannel dressing gown

1. summer weight dressing gown
2. pairs of slippers

Question 11: What should Jane and Henry consider in choosing their luggage?

Answer: If you are buying new luggage—compare notes! It is more satisfactory for Jane and Henry to use matching luggage through the years, not only during their honeymoon. Men particularly like good looking luggage. It is wise to buy good quality not only for appearance but for wearing qualities.

Select luggage that will answer the requirements of train, plane, ship or automobile.

Select matching and coordinated pieces which are simple enough in design to remain in fashion for years to come.

Select luggage that combines strength and durability with lightness of weight. This is most important not only because of air travel requirements but because of the difficulty frequently in getting porter service.

As in most things, it is wise to buy "brand" names.

Do not over-burden yourselves with unnecessary luggage, but have enough! You will not be happy or comfortable carrying parcels and shopping bags to supplement your matched cases. Either on the honeymoon or later you will eventually want the following pieces:

An overnight or train case (for Jane) for bottles, jars, cos­metics, "personals," nightgown, robe slippers, an extra pair of stockings, briefs, and such. On an overnight or short trip this is usually the only bag that will need to be opened.

A corresponding case (for Henry) which might be a brief case if he plans to travel considerably in connection with his busi­ness.

A week-end case for each—Jane's is sometimes a little smaller than Henry's.

Each will also need a large pullman or wardrobe type case. The latter are equipped with hanger on which to hang and pack clothes in order to have them practically wrinkle-free.

If the budget can take it, Jane will also like a hatbox, and one shoe case, but shoes can be packed in the bottom of bags, and hats carried in their own boxes.

The kind and size of trunks you might need will depend en­tirely upon the kind and length of traveling you may do.

Question 12: In the household trousseau, what is considered first?
Answer: Linens.

Question 13: What points should Jane consider in the first basic buying of linens?

Answer: It is usually wise to make practical purchases of minimum requirements, and depend upon wedding and shower gifts for the luxuries.

Do not over-buy—styles change. In deciding whether to buy less or more than the basic list, consider the available space for the linen closet. The linen closet should be a source of pride. Make it as attractive as possible with paint, gay wall paper, or the newer "contact," and shelf edging. Be sure to have lavender bags for the linen shelves.

Buy from well-established, reputable houses. Buy brand names. Avoid imitations. Poor quality linens have sizing which washes out in the first laundering, leaving the linen thin and limp. Sizing is a glue-like substance put into materials to make them seem to have more body than the material actually has. If materials have a highly glossed, starchy appearance, you may be sure that they contain sizing—and that the quality is there­fore not the highest. The better the quality of linen, the longer its life will be.

Unless Jane has definitely established her color schemes, white is the safest color for basic lists of sheets and formal table linen.

Note: For monogramming or marking of linens, see end of this chapter.

Question 14: What are the minimum requirements for bedroom linens?

Answer: 4 complete linen changes for each bed. This means for each bed:

8 sheets (single size, 72" x 108"; double, 90" x 108"; three-quarter, 81" x 108") 4 cases (45" x 38 ½"—8 cases if double bed)

1          electric or 1 pair of winter blankets (72" x 90", single bed;
80" x 90", double bed)
2          summer blankets

1. down comforter or quilt
2. blanket covers

2 quilted mattress pads 1 mattress protector
1 bedspread

Question 15: What are the best materials and colors for bed linens?

Answer: Sheets may be of percale, linen, muslin or nylon. Personal taste and the budget should be the guiding factors. There are many grades of all of these materials, and the length of wear depends upon the quality. Quality in turn depends upon the strength of yarns used and the closeness of weave. The best quality feels as smooth as silk to the skin. Linen wrinkles more easily than the others. Nylon sheets are fast drying and need no ironing, but some people feel they are cold to the skin in winter and cause perspiration in the summer. Percale is a great favorite, being soft and light-weight. Some feel that muslin stands up longer with commercial laundering, but it is heavier than the other materials. White is the safest color for sheets and pillow cases. However, there is a trend now to coordinate color of sheets or the trimming on sheets and pillow cases to the color scheme of bathroom linens. On sheets and pillow cases, a solid hem is more practical than a hemstitched one. The bottom sheet is always plain. The top sheet may by scalloped, embroidered or monogrammed. Contour sheets for the bottom sheet are now popular—their fitted corners keep the sheet tucked in around the mattress, and once it is on makes bedmaking easier.

Blanket covers (linen, cotton, silk, rayon or nylon) may be plain, printed, or lace trimmed. They add a note of luxury to a bed and keep the blankets clean.

In selecting quilts, carry out the color schemes of bedrooms.

Blankets may be of pure wool, rayon, nylon, orlon, or cotton. There are variations in grade and texture of all of these; best quality of any of them is a good buy—poor quality a poor buy. Look for close weave, deep nap and softness.

Because of wiring, buy electric blankets from a reputable house, or buy the most reliable brand name. One electric blanket suffices for two winter blankets. Being lightweight, they can be used the year around.

Question 16: What are the minimum requirements for bathroom linens?

Answer: i dozen bath towels—large, 1 dozen matching towels— small, l dozen washcloths, 2dozen linen hand towels (guest towels), 3 bath mats, 2 bathroom rugs, 1 pair of shower curtains, 1 bath set—rug and cover set. This list serves to equip one bath­room. One-half this quantity will suffice for each additional bathroom as minimum equipment.

Question 17: What about kind, quality and color of bath linens?

Answer: If you possibly can, buy the best quality bath linens which you will find closely woven. These will absorb water better than inferior quality and will give much longer wear.

You may wish to monogram bath towels, matching face towels and wash cloths. If so, then it is better to omit monograms from shower curtains, bath mats, as too many monograms will not look well. One generous size for all bath towels looks better and is more convenient than an extra large for "His" and smaller for "Hers." Bath linen of one color, possibly with contrasting mono­grams, for each bathroom looks better than many colors without relation to each other or to the general color scheme. Regardless of the bathroom's color scheme, guest towels of good quality and not too fancy are best in white. If you decide to invest money in a very good shower curtain of moire or other good fabric, then by all means buy an inexpensive, clear plastic curtain to use as a liner curtain. This lining will protect the better curtain by tak­ing the soap suds and water splashed from daily showers. Thus the good curtain will look well and wear longer.

Question 18: What are the minimum equipment requirements for table linens?

Answer: i formal dinner cloth of linen, lace, embroidered organdy or damask—the size to overlap the dining table by not less than

12" and not more than 18".
1 dozen matching dinner napkins
1 luncheon cloth
8 matching luncheon napkins
1 formal place mat set of embroidered linen
8 matching napkins
Pads of the same size as mats to fit under them for hot dishes

1. informal place mat sets of homespun or novelty weave, cork, straw, or cellophane
2. napkins to match each set

1 dozen cocktail napkins of linen, lace trimmed or embroidered linen
8 tea napkins, fine white linen, embroidered linen or linen with lace inserts
1 table pad

Of course individual requirements vary, and the basic list will need to depend somewhat upon living quarters. The modern trend is toward informal, relaxed living. Even for formal dining, place mats are used more than dinner cloths. For breakfast and informal luncheons, place mats are used almost entirely. They come in great variety and are usually selected in colors to har­monize with the color scheme of the breakfast room, dinette or dining room. Doilies of lace or embroidered linen are used for the bread tray, sandwich and petits fours plates. Except for formal dinners, the doilies may be of paper if one wishes, but paper never has the same charm as linen or lace. For your formal tables, the very best linen you can buy is the most economical. Inexpensive, gay linens are adequate for the breakfast and in­formal luncheon tables. Since variety of tables is used today for dining—dinette table, bridge table, the new, round tables of unpainted wood, regular dining tables and buffet tables—the size and types of linen must be chosen individually. On an ele­gantly finished dining table formal place mats are beautiful— but most inappropriate on a painted wood table. To a large ex­tent, the kind and quality of linen you will need depends upon the kind and extent of entertaining you plan. Perhaps you plan mostly buffet suppers—especially if you are to have a small apartment with a correspondingly small kitchen. If you are to have a house in the suburbs, you may plan week-end entertain­ing. If you are not to continue your career after marriage, you may entertain at luncheons and teas. Before you choose color for formal cloths, consider at great length, even if the color harmonizes with your china. White or off-white is always right for formal dining—any color you choose in advance may not seem best taste in actual use.

Question 19: What are the minimum requirements for kitchen linens?

Answer: You will need: 2 dozen dish towels, 1 dozen glass towels, 6 hand towels, 1 dozen dish cloths, 4 pot holders, miscellaneous cleaning cloths, 6 aprons.

Kitchen towels for china, pots and pans are best in good quality muslin or the new nylon; other fabrics may leave lint or streaks on articles. These towels are best in a large size. Linen or nylon towels are best for glass and silver and are smaller in size. Paper towels may be preferred to linen or muslin hand towels in the kitchen. Modern kitchen towels can add great charm and individuality to the kitchen—there are many colorful and gay prints. The more usual kitchen towels are all white or white with colored borders to harmonize with the kitchen color scheme.

The number and kind of cleaning cloths will depend some­what upon the size of the home and the kind of furnishings. There are excellent, specially treated cloths on the market for polishing silver and other metals such as brass and copper; lint-less dust cloths. Soft chamois-like cloths for polishing furniture after waxing. Good, heavy scrub cloths. It pays in time and effort-saving to have a good supply and variety of these cloths.

Question 20: What are the basic, minimum requirements for china?

Answer: For breakfast, luncheon and buffet supper:
8 plates—medium
8 plates—small
8 cups and saucers (2 jumbo breakfast coffee cups for Jane
and Henry)
            8 Cereal bowls
            8 egg cups
2          platters—1 medium, 1 smaller
8 bread and butter plates
1 coffee pot
1 tea pot
1 cream and sugar
1 syrup or hot milk jug
1 covered toast dish
salt and pepper holders (china, glass or silver)
3          small bowls for marmalade, jelly or sauces (china or glass)
1 set of wooden pepper and salt grinders
8 salad bowls (individual) of seasoned wood (or, if perferred,
china or glass)

For fine dinnerware a budget list should include four 5 piece place settings which consist of dinner plate, salad plate, bread and butter plate, cup and saucer or, if the budget is not re­stricted—

8 large plates—10"
8 bread and butter plates—5"
12 medium plates (to be used as place plates, or for salad or
dessert)—8"
8 tea cups and saucers
8 demitasse cups and saucers
1 coffee pot—china or silver
1 tea pot—china or silver
1 cream and sugar—china or silver
8 rim soup plates—7" or
8 cream soups with service plate, or both
1 large oval serving platter—14"—china or silver

1. smaller oval serving platter—12"—china or silver
2. vegetable dishes—china or silver

1          deep bowl for desserts or fruit—china or silver
1          sauce boat and stand for gravies—china or silver
1          matching ladle, or glass ladle
1          wicker bread basket or
1          bread tray or plate—china, silver or wood
1          salad bowl with serving fork and spoon—china, glass, or
seasoned wood
condiment dishes—china, silver or glass
2          set of salts and peppers—china, silver or glass
6 individual table ash trays—silver, pewter, china, glass or
pottery
2 cigarette containers—silver, pewter, china, glass or pottery

And if you entertain frequently for tea, in addition to tea cups and saucers (which are also used for coffee) in matching sets as listed above, do have 1 dozen thin, very beautiful china, bone china, or (perhaps as an heirloom gift) Canton china tea cups and saucers to use either with a matching tea service (tea pot, cream and sugar and extra pot for hot water, small bowl for discarded tea leaves from straining, lemon dish) or silver tea service (which in addition to items listed for matching tea service will include a tea kettle for use over a spirit container)

Question 21: What are the kinds of dinnerwear?

Answer: Fine china: refers usually to American ware which is fired to achieve non-porosity. It is a development from porcelain wares produced in Europe. China has a combination of white­ness, translucency and durability.

Porcelain: this is a type of pottery which is characterized by hardness, translucence, and whiteness. Because porcelain was a Chinese product, admired and used all over the world for centuries before Europeans discovered the secret of its manufac­ture, in the 18 th century, the terms porcelain and china are often used interchangeably.

English bone china: England produces this almost exclusively. In the 19th century it was discovered in England that if bone-ash was added to porcelain the result was great strength and dur­ability as well as translucence.

Among the china and porcelain patterns which are especially popular are Limoges (French), Sevres (French), Dresden (Ger­man), Crown Derby, Royal Worcester, Spode, Staffordshire and Wedgwood (all English), and Lenox (American, since 1889).

Baleek: Irish porcelain which is very light and very thin with a luster glaze giving a mother-of-pearl effect. It is extremely fragile.

Stoneware: a type of clay ware with a hard, porous body, usually yellowish to dark brown, greyish or bluish. Today stone­ware is used primarily for vases, statuettes and decorative objects.

Earthenware: this has a soft, opaque, very porous body with little resistance to cracking, chipping or grazing. Although bulky in appearance, it lacks strength and when broken or cracked the body absorbs food contamination, discoloring permanently.

Pottery: is made of coarse clays and fired at temperatures just high enough to harden the body; it has a soft, pleasant surface which can be charmingly decorated. While it once was the only clay ware known, today it is used primarily for decorative art.

Question 22: Should there be a definite relation between china, silver and crystal?

Answer: Coordinating but not matching is the scheme followed. Jane might select her china first (together with Henry). She should choose a pattern keyed to the decorative scheme of her home, and color keyed to the color scheme. Some people, how­ever, prefer to choose the silver first; others choose the two with the crystal. Linens are the background for china, while silver and crystal frame the picture. The best decoration today does not require that everything be of the same period but blends several together. When coordinating silver, china, and crystal remember that part of the setting should be simple. If a simply decorated china pattern is used, then the silver and crystal may be richly decorated; or with a highly decorated china, plain silver and simple crystal should be selected.

Question 23: How does Jane let her friends know her choice of pattern?

Answer: When choosing gifts for her, it helps friends and relatives to know Jane's choice of patterns. Therefore she should choose the patterns she likes as soon as possible in china, silver and crystal and register them in a local department store, or jeweler.

Question 24: Is there any buying advice Jane should keep in mind?

Answer: She should select china that will be available over the years. Before she buys any china, Jane should make lists o£ what she will need for the tables she will probably set, beginning with breakfast and ending with the highest number she is likely to in­vite to luncheons, suppers or formal dinners. Open stock refers to patterns that may be bought in a shop on a piece-by-piece basis. China may be bought in this way or in place settings and in complete services.

China dinnerware and bone china are sturdy and meant to be used and enjoyed. The practice of bringing out the "best" china for Sundays and guests is outmoded. Today, fine china is used all the time. It is well to remember that, as with anything you buy, the best costs less over the years. Because good quality is long-lasting, the most durable china you can buy is the most economical in the end. However, do not choose a pattern which is expensive to replace when pieces are broken unless you are unrestricted in your scale of living. When you select your pattern of china bear in mind that basic types of designs are always an excellent choice. They are never dated, they are in good taste, and—perhaps most important—you will not tire of them. Always avoid extremes and fads which disappear as quickly as they spring up. Here are a few specific points to help you evaluate china when you are selecting it:

Translucency—hold up a plate and see how the light comes through. Translucency is one of the distinctive characteristics of fine china; it is not found in earthenware or pottery.

Resonance—hold a dinner plate in your fingertips. Tap it with a pencil or snap your fingernail against it. Fine china will, like crystal, ring with a high, clear, echoing tone.

Weight—lift a china dinner plate. It will feel light and well-balanced.

Evenness—examine a few pieces carefully. Fine china will have a full roundness and balanced evenness throughout.

Balance—the pieces will stand evenly, firmly. This is another characteristic of fine china and is most important in storing.

Color—whatever the base color or colors in the decoration, they should be even, never streaked or mottled.

Decoration—always look for the craft and care in the execu­tion of the design motif, the feeling of the design as it is carried to the various serving pieces.

Glaze—adds special distinction and beauty to fine china. The glaze provides the coating which guards china through years of service. It is a special protection-coat which is fused by intense heat into the body of the ware. It provides the most sanitary surface of all dinnerwares. And quality china will not have pits, bubbles, or thickened areas.

Finally lift a cup by its handle. Does it fit your fingers easily, comfortably? Will a man find it equally easy and comfortable to hold?

Question 25: How will Jane use china in her scheme for daily living and entertaining?

Answer: Today, most home luncheons are simple, most home din­ners consist of three courses, and most festive meals are complete in three or four courses. The buffet luncheon and dinner have become increasingly popular for entertaining in our servantless world. But there is still a certain amount of selectivity and nicety in our arrangements for entertaining.

For the formal dinner, we usually use fine bone china or porcelain, never earthenware. It is unnecessary to have a match­ing set for all courses. All of the place plates at a single course must match. Serving dishes, salad plates and butter plates may be silver or glass. Centerpieces may be silver or glass as well as china, and this is true also for the dishes for sweets, nuts, for candlesticks, salts and peppers, ash trays and cigarette containers. Or if these pieces are of another china pattern, they should have some harmonious relation either in texture or in color. (For instance, never combine earthenware with porcelain.) Since coffee for a formal dinner is served after the dessert at table or in the living room, coffee cups and saucers or demitasse do not need to match the set.

Even though people usually use their fine china for dinner every day, regardless of whether there are guests, there is a place for gay informal china at breakfast, lunch, or Sunday night supper. This usually includes pottery plates, serving dishes that come from stove to table, wooden salad bowls, individual as well as service casseroles.

Question 26: What are the requirements for glass or crystal?

Answer: As a starter set the following is recommended: place settings —consisting of goblets, champagne or sherbet glasses, wine glasses.

A more generous basic list: 8 stemmed goblets—water glasses —for the table, 10 oz., 8 stemmed wine glasses, 3 to 5 oz. These should be rounded tulip shape, pointed or squared bowl, which can be used for any wine except champagne or sherry. Wine glasses may be used for cocktails provided they do not have tulip shaped bowls which are used exclusively for serving wines. 8 stemmed sherry glasses, 2 oz. These may have pointed, rounded or squared bowls and are much smaller than other wine glasses. They cannot be used for serving other wines or cocktails. 8 stemmed champagne glasses, 3 to 5 oz. Glasses for use other than at the dinner table: 1 doz. cocktail glasses, stemmed or not, 3 to 4 oz. with round, pointed or square bowls. 8 Old Fashioned glasses, not stemmed, 7 to 9 oz. 8 liqueur glasses, usually stemmed, 12oz. 8 water tumblers, not stemmed, 7 oz. These are for serv­ing water other than at the table. They are also useful for serving milk to children. 1 dozen tall glasses, not stemmed, for serving all long drinks—iced tea, iced coffee, gingerale, milk, whiskey-and-soda, beer, Tom Collins—14 to 16 oz. 8 fruit juice glasses, stemmed or not, 5 to 6 oz., 8 sea food cocktail glasses, short-stemmed or not, small round bowl. 8 bowls, 5 or 6" in diameter, not stemmed, for iced desserts or sherbets. They may also be used for finger bowls. Other glass tableware that may be included: Ashtrays, bowls (for serving or centerpieces), candelabra, candle­sticks (4 for the dining table), centerpieces, cigarette containers, cocktail shakers, cream pitchers and sugar bowls, decanters, small dishes for jam and jelly, mustard bowls, plates, salt and pepper containers, water pitchers.

Question 27: What should Jane consider in buying glassware?

Answer: Strictly speaking, there is no such thing as a "glass trous­seau." Glassware usually comes through gifts. These gifts, how­ever, consist of a definite list. Jane should be sure to indicate her pattern choice on the gift preference list in her favorite shop.

Friends can then add the matching pieces she will need. And don't forget to list some of the many lovely decorative and useful "extras" such as bowls, hurricane lamps, pictures, or vases to add brilliance, sparkle and variety to the decor of the new home. Before deciding upon your pattern, study and consider care­fully ornamentation or the lack of it, the balance of shape, weight and color. If possible, choose your glassware in a shop where you can actually see the place setting complete and try out the various styles and colors with the silver and china you prefer.

Begin by selecting the number of glasses that can be used for several kinds of beverages and fill in later with the special kinds of glasses. Many pieces in glass can double for use—a 9 oz. footed water tumbler can also be used for iced tea or iced coffee; a 12 oz. footed iced tea glass is perfect for all long drinks; a 6 oz. champagne glass is fine for sherbets. Each individual is the best judge for what constitutes her own minimum service. If the china and silver are good, the glass should be, too. It is wise to select patterns from open stock since breakage in glassware is heavy and replacements are often needed. Selection of pattern, kind and quantity depends upon the size of the family, whether your home is formal or informal, and the amount of entertaining you expect to do. The easiest way to select glasses is in a matched set; otherwise, glasses for each purpose should match each other. If a matched set is not chosen, then select the water goblets first, and scale the other glasses to them in size, shape and design. Remember also that it is wise not to select colored water or wine glasses.

Question 28: What are the different kinds of glassware?

Answer: Glass is made of silica, soda and lime; broken glass and certain other materials are used to obtain special characteristics such as color or opacity. A glass is formed from these materials when they are melted at high temperatures and then cooled under controlled conditions so that the substance attains the solid state with having crystallized.

Lime glasses—silica-soda-lime base—referred to as "soft" glasses, may be made from low cost ingredients and melted at lower temperatures. These are used for inexpensive tableware.

Lead glasses—silica and lead oxide, or silicate and an alkali and a special ingredient—are also called "soft" glasses and are characterized by high lustre. These are used for fine decorative tableware and art glassware. When struck, these give off a full, ringing tone.

Borsilicate glasses—silica and boric oxide and sodium oxide and potassium oxide and alumina—are referred to as "hard" glasses and are used for cooking ware. Usual methods of glass fabrication are blowing, pressing, and drawing. These methods may be handworked, semi-automatic or completely automatic, and normally require that the glass be worked while in a hot, viscous state. A new method has recently been developed called the multiform process for cold-molding glass. Nearly all blown or pressed glassware is now formed in hot iron molds or "paste" molds (iron molds with an inside paste coating). The more ex­pensive table ware is made without molds—that is, "off hand."

Pressed Glass: this glassware is made in molds. The molten glass is poured into a mold made in two or more pieces. When the glass hardens, the mold is removed, leaving rough edges at the mold-joinings. By a process of reheating, the glass is then fire-polished to remove mold marks. This can be done completely on some pieces; owing to the shape of others, traces of the mold marks remain. Pressed glass varies greatly in quality—from fine reproduction of such famous ware as early Sandwich glass to crude shapes on which no attempt has been made to remove the mold marks. Good pressed glass should be clear.

Blown glass: this is frequently lighter and thinner than pressed glass. Tap it with a finger nail and it will give forth a clear, bell-like note. Blown glass is made by hand and by human lungs. The designs in this glass are cut or etched. Because blown glass is handmade, it is somewhat expensive.

Question 29: How can one tell good quality of glass?

Answer: Good glassware is clear and lustrous, free from imperfec­tions. Of significance is a smooth regular finish around the edges. The design is in perfect balance, of unusual style and beauty. Carelessly manufactured glassware may be lumpy, uneven, clumsy in shape.

Question 30: What are some of the points to remember about glass?

Answer: Decorative effects are usually achieved by etching with chemicals; sand blasting; enameling; cutting with abrasive wheels; or engraving with fine copper wheels. Some decoration is molded in glassware when it is made. Good glass is made of silica (fine sand) and soda or potash and alkali and lead or lime. Crystal is glass o£ superior brilliancy, such as flint glass. Glass­ware may be plain, clear, or etched. Plain glass is transparent, shining, and beautiful. Etching adds a decorative note and gives glassware life and sparkle. Avoid imitation cut glass or etching. Some glass gains beauty by being colored. Good English, Irish, Venetian or American handmade glass is distinguished from ordinary glass by its tendency to catch the light and glimmer. It is clear and brilliant, tough and not liable to chip. It is also more expensive than ordinary glass.

Question 31: What are the types of glass?

Answer: 1. Heavy, sculptural, 2. Heavy, cut glass, 3. Light, etched glass.

Question 32: Is there a difference between crystal and glass?

Answer: Strictly speaking, no glassware is rock crystal. The only rock crystal is natural quartz. In common usage, however, the term "rock crystal" refers to fine glassware that has been cut and polished. Originally crystal referred to the color of glass. Regard­less of quality, crystal was clear glass to differentiate it from colored glass. However, the word "crystal" has been widely adopted to indicate any fine, handmade glass in contrast to cheap, machine-made glass, regardless of color. Some experts consider that the only glass entitled to be termed crystal is that which contains a considerable quantity of lead—not less than 24%.

Note: For large cocktail or buffet parties, use inexpensive glasses which can readily be replaced. For more intimate or more formal parties, use your finest.

Question 33: What are the requirements for silver?

Answer: Basic list of flat silver:

8 place settings—consisting of place knife and fork which can
be used for breakfast, lunch and dinner, salad fork, butter
spreader, teaspoon and dessert spoon, which can also be used
for soups served in soup plates.
8 additional teaspoons (teaspoons are used for some desserts,
fruit cups, tea and coffee)
8 steak knifes (they need not be silver-handled, but must have
sharp steel blades suitable for steaks, chops, roasts)
3 serving spoons
2 additional dinner forks for serving
1 carving set for steaks
l carving set for roasts
l cake knife
8 demitasse spoons—these need not match the silver set or each
 other
8 cocktail or oyster forks
l sugar tongs
l butter knife or pick
l gravy ladle
1 silver chest—tarnish proof.
 Suggested list for holloware:

Silver tea and coffee service—tea pot, coffee pot, sugar bowl, cream pitcher, waste container, kettle, tea strainer and tea caddy, and a silver tray. After-dinner coffee service—coffee pot smaller than the one included with the tea service, also smaller cream pitcher and sugar bowl (for those who do not take even this coffee black) and a small silver tray.

l sandwich plate 10" for sandwiches, cake, or canapes,
l large platter i steak platter
bowls—small, medium and large, from 42 to 10" for candy,
 fruit, or flowers
l gravy boat and tray
l sauce bowl and tray
pipkin and tray
salt and pepper shakers
candlesticks—high and low
candelabra
cigarette boxes
water pitcher
ash trays
cocktail shaker
bread basket or bread tray
vegetable dish with cover
Pacific cloth felt bags (tarnish proof) for storing holloware

Note: These pieces are not usually selected as a "set" of one pattern, except the tea and after dinner coffee services. The designs should harmonize or be acceptable to use with each other. Pieces that are handled and cleaned a great deal should be solid silver—ash trays, tea service. Others are often silverplate (silver on a metal base)—candelabra, centerpieces, a big tray.

Question 34: What are the forms of table silver?

Answer: 1. Flatware (or flat silver)

2. Holloware (sometimes spelled hollow ware). Both are found in sterling silver and silverplate. Sheffield plate is never found in flatware but is used for holloware such as trays, platters, tea­pots and candlesticks.

Question 35: What is flatware?

Answer: Knives, forks and spoons, including those used in serving foods constitute flatware. The finest quality knives, both in sterling and in silverplate, have hollow handles to permit greater detail of pattern and better balance than would be possible with solid handles.

Question 36: What is holloware?

Answer: Holloware means all dishes, bowls, tea and coffee services, trays, salt and pepper shakers, candlesticks and items used in table service or for table decoration. The term "holloware" re­fers to the shape of the pieces and not to the silver used in them, which is sterling, silverplate or Sheffield.

Question 37: What is patina and how is it created?

Answer: Patina is the soft, mellow finish that makes silver glow. When new silver comes from the store it has a bright, mirror-like commercial finish which cannot and should not be pre­served. It lacks the charm of age and use. When silver begins to take on a tracery of minute scratches which with constant han­dling, daily care, and periodic cleaning gradually blend together, the patina, typical of well-cared-for silver is beginning. It is this soft, mellow patina which lends silver its greatest charm. Then with constant handling, washing, drying and careful cleaning, the gleaming lustre seen in fine old silver appears. This lustre is known as "butler finish"—a name given it from the fact that traditionally in England the care of the family silver was one of the responsibilities of the butler.

Question 38: What are the different kinds of silver?

Answer: The J. A. Wright & Co. Makers of Wright's Silver Cream, in it's booklet, "Beautiful Silver—Its Use and Care" gives the fol­lowing information about the different kinds of silver:

"Sterling Silver—The word "sterling" represents a standard of purity in silver. Because of the softness of the pure metal, silver is normally alloyed with a small amount of copper to make it harder and more durable—practical for daily use.

"This standard called for 75 parts of copper or other metal to 925 of pure silver (known as 925/1000 fine). It was given the name of the North-German traders who introduced it:—'Ester-ling,' later contracted to 'Sterling.' In 1907 it became part of the United States law that the term 'sterling' should be stamped only on pieces of silver made from an alloy containing 925 parts of silver in every 1000 parts of metal. Therefore, all 'sterling' today is silver of this high quality.

"The official stamp or mark placed on a piece of silver indi­cates its purity and is known as a hallmark.

"Silverplate—Until a little over a century ago, silver was so costly that only the very wealthy could afford it. Then the elec­troplating process was invented. By this process, a base metal is coated or plated with pure silver. The term silverplate applies to silver articles manufactured by this process.

"The base metal used in the silverplating industry is either nickel silver or white metal. It is hard and very rigid and does not bend or break easily. The thickness of the pure silver coating (thin, medium or heavy plate) depends on the length of time the base metal is left in the coating solution. Whether or not pieces are reinforced with additional silver at points of greatest wear, such as the tips of spoons and forks, and points which rest on the table, is also important in considering quality of silver-plate. It can be replated at any time.

"Sheffield Plate: Even before the electroplating process came into use, a form of silverplating was developed in England, among the metal workers of Sheffield, from which it takes its name. To produce Sheffield plate, a sheet of pure silver was fused by heat to each side of a sheet of copper, and the resulting metal was handled almost like sterling silver. The gadroon edge so typical of Sheffield was formed from additional silver applied to conceal the copper at the edge. An etched design, such as a crest, which would have cut through the sheet of silver to ex­pose the copper beneath, usually required insertion of a 'shield' of pure silver. Even with such devices, the copper color may often be seen at the edges and wear points of pieces of old Shef­field plate.

"The Sheffield plating process fell into partial disuse about a century ago, because modern electroplating could be done much more economically and with less labor. Therefore most pieces of genuine Sheffield plate on the market today are valuable not only for their intrinsic beauty, but because they are antiques."

Question 39: What is the relation of stainless steel to silver?

Answer: While it cannot be compared with silver, stainless steel is nevertheless very attractive, durable and easy to care for. There is a trend toward using it not only for "everyday" service but, with modern furnishings, for semiformal entertaining, especially when the entertaining has terrace, patio, or gay buffet as its background.

Question 40: Does the bride usually include silver in planning her trousseau, or does she usually receive it as gifts?

Answer: The bride's family usually gives her the flat silver and the groom's family the silver tea service as a wedding present. Silver is not trousseau but a very principal gift. However, it does con­sist of a definite list of items. She should select her pattern be­fore marriage and decide upon the pieces and quantities she would like to have. She must select the monogram or marking (see end of this chapter). And she must consider whether or not she wishes "everyday" silver, and if so, what kind.

Question 41: How does Jane go about selecting her silver?

Answer: She should select it from a reputable store and it should be one of the fine brand names. The flat silver should always be sterling. Together with Henry, she should select her pattern to harmonize with her china and glass and register her choice in a local store. Then she should designate the basic list of pieces with which she would like to start. Of course her family or some­one else may give her the entire set. If not, the pieces she does receive are a beginning and may be added to on birthdays and anniversaries as the years go by. It is important that a beginning be made at the time of marriage as it always seems hard to in­clude silver in the budget after marriage.

Nothing takes the place of sterling silver to complete a table setting with fine china and good glass. Silver of one pattern is usually preferred, but if sterling has been given to a bride from family heirlooms, different patterns may be used together. Pieces for special courses need not match "place settings." (See later on in this chapter for blending silver, china, glass.)

Question 42: Is there any guide to choosing modern or traditional silver patterns?

Answer: The amount and kind of decoration and the mood of the motif are more important than the period. Formality and ele­gance should be carried out in linen, silver, china and glass, as should informality and casual appointments. It is effective and considered smart to use all traditional or all modern table ap­pointments. But it is equally good and equally effective to mix the new with the old. Coordination rather than exact matching is the important thing. And even more important is to have the right assortment of flat silver which you will need for any given meal, formal or informal. At any time, the table is set only with those pieces needed to serve and eat the food for that particular meal. Whether modern or traditional, silver is one of the most beautiful and durable of all the appointments in a home. It gathers tradition from generation to generation and the more it is used the more beautiful it becomes.

Question 43: What is the basic list for outfitting a small kitchen?

Answer: Items that are needed:

Double boiler                  Cork screw
Skillet—2 sizes               Salt and pepper shakers
Teapot                           Set of wire strainers
Coffee maker                 Dish strainer
Pitcher                            Dish pan
Canister set                    Vegetable brush
Step-on garbage can       Knife sharpener
Metal or plastic waste basket    Grapefruit knife
Vegetable bin                 Set of cutlery with rack
Can and bottle opener    Peeler and corer
Grater
Colander
Tongs (£or ice cubes or veg­etables)
Dutch oven
Bread board
4 paring knives
Oven thermometer
Oven baster
Roasters—large and mall
Meat grinder
Mold for salads and desserts Candy (icing) thermometer Muffin tin
4 sauce pans
Pie plate
Trays
2 layer cake tins
l tube cake pan
Casseroles, large and s mall
Set o£ mixing bowls
Custard cups
Set of measuring spoons
Flour sifter
Measuring cup
Set of divided measuring cups
Rolling pin
Cutting board
Fruit juicer
Egg beater
Egg whisk
Spatula
Cake tester
Potato masher
i butcher knife
6 covered refrigerator dishes
6 stainless steel kitchen
forks and spoons Cook book

Question 44: What are the necessary cleaning and laundry utensils?

Broom
Dust pan
Dust brush
Wet mop
Scrub brush Bucket
Dust mop
Whisk broom
Ironing board
Step stool
Sleeve board
Clothes basket
Rubber gloves
Carpet sweeper
Question 45: What electrical appliances are desirable to have?
Answer

Coffee maker Toaster Pressure cooker Electric clock Electric mixer Waffle iron Vacuum cleaner

Electric iron
Roaster
Deep fryer, roaster, server
Sandwich grill
Griddle
Electric broiler and rotisserie

Question 46: What buying guides should one follow for the kitchen?

Answer: Always buy good quality in kitchen equipment because it will last longer. Furthermore, kitchen equipment is used so constantly it should be attractive to the eye and pleasant to use. Most important, also, recipes turn out better when prepared in good vessels.

Make a list o£ what you will need and what you would like. Wait until the shower and wedding gifts have come in, check off from your list, then buy what you need to complete it.

Plan your kitchen color scheme early and decide what type of cooking utensils you prefer. Your friends will check this list before buying gifts. You will be glad to have your kitchen equip­ment planned for color, type and design.

Stainless steel, copper, pyrex and aluminum ware are practi­cal and attractive for most kitchen utensils. Some are good also in enamel, iron or earthenware.

In general it is better not to buy too much extra equipment until one has been housekeeping for a time. One will then dis­cover what additional items are really needed. A bride cannot know the best size, shape and type of utensil until she has done some cooking and serving.

Question 47: What are some of the most useful accessories for modern, informal entertaining?

Answer: In addition to the list of appropriate electrical appliances (in this chapter, "Question and answer 45"), keep in mind the following list of accessories which are especially useful for en­tertaining:

Inexpensive chromium knives, forks and spoons with bamboo or walnut handles—for large or outdoor buffets, or barbecues, and for picnics and use in a summer cabin or cottage.

Large and individual earthenware, French or American man­ufacture, glazed or unglazed. Some have attractive copper lids. Some fit into attractive wicker holders. The Scandinavian cast iron casseroles, enameled or painted and decorated in colors, are also useful and attractive.

Copper, although not inexpensive, is very effective for cook­ing and serving in the same utensil. It should be noted that there are now fine preparations on the market which make copper very easy to keep clean.

Wooden salad bowls, individual and for serving, salt and pepper mills, serving forks and spoons, Lazy Susans, trays, cheese boards, bread boards and chopping bowls are all attractive.

Avoid wood that is shellacked as the surface will probably peel or blister; also that which has ornate carving or too much col­ored decoration. Plain, seasoned wood with beautiful grain will in time acquire its own inimitable patina.

Ironstone or European pottery soup tureens with tray and ladle come in different sizes and are handsome on a buffet table.

Pottery or glass mugs with handles—together with matching jugs, bottles or pitchers.

Chafing dishes in brass or copper (or for more formal and festive indoor buffets, silver or silver plate).

Glass punch bowl and punch cups (and again for more formal affairs, silver or silverplate).

Trays fitted with small dishes and jars, glass or pottery, for condiments, or hors d'oeuvres.

Various kinds of salad sets—wood, glass, pottery, china, an­tique or "modern" majolica ware.

Vinegar and oil cruets, glass, often on a wooden base or in a wicker holder.

Antique or modern pottery or glass "Setting Hens" for serv­ing scrambled eggs.

Trays of all kinds and sizes—tole, sandal wood, papier-maché, wrought-iron, wicker, or others.

Coasters of all kinds, and plenty of them.

Note: Most of these entertaining accessories will come along as shower or wedding gifts. But have your list ready.

Question 48: What is a monogram and how does one choose it?

Answer: Webster gives this definition: "A character or cipher com­posed of two or more letters interwoven or combined." A single initial is, therefore, not really a monogram, but a marking.

While Jane will probably want her silver and linen mono-grammed or marked, she will usually receive gifts unmarked, in case of duplication. She has them marked or monogrammed ac­cording to her taste.

The selection of a monogram is largely a matter of taste: one selects the combination of letter most appealing. The size of the letters should be in proportion to the piece being marked. For best design, 3 letters are most used, although 2 or 4 are correct. If a certain combination should happen to spell a word that would be ludicrous, naturally some other arrange­ment would be chosen.

When silver, glass or table linen is to be marked with mono­gram or initial, the wife's are used or both husband and wife incorporated. If crest or coat of arms is used, it should be hus­band's. There is no set rule for arrangement of letters—arrange­ment depends on space to be monogrammed and design of piece to be monogrammed.

Silver that is a part of bride's hope chest before she is en­gaged, is usually marked with her maiden initials or the single letter of her last name—or with her family's crest. If silver has been passed down in the family and is monogrammed with the initial of the maiden surname, it may be kept that way, or a jeweler may be able to remove the initials and substitute the letters of the bride's new name. Silver given the bride after the marriage, will be marked with her married initials or with the single initial of her husband's last name, or with his family's crest. Since there is this reason for different monogramming on silver used at the table, it is considered acceptable. Previously anything the bride got before she was actually married was marked with her maiden initial—but now some brides prefer to mark flat silver with the married initial or monogram. Silver may have a marking of one initial or family crest or monogram. Initials are preferable to a name. The type of letter used depends on type of silver to be marked. Simple letters, block or script are more suitable for most patterns of silver purchased today. Old English letters are used only for silver design appropriate. Some silver patterns are especially designed to accommodate a monogram, others would clearly become cluttered-looking with further engraving. So be sure you choose your pattern with a monogram in mind if you want one. You'd be wise to consult your jeweler about the exact pattern of the initials. He can ad­vise you just what arrangement will look prettiest in the silver pattern you've selected.

Silver-plated and stainless-steel flatware is seldom mono­grammed.
Following are examples of possible monograms for silver:

 Triangle—Jane and Henry Noyes. Their first initials at base of triangle. His last initial at top of triangle. Inverted triangle—bride's maiden initials (first 2 Christian and maiden surname) in an inverted triangle or her first Christian and her maiden surname combined with her married surname initial at the base. Jane Sarah Rogers, or Jane Rogers Noyes. Inverted triangle—Jane Sarah Noyes—bride's maiden initials (first name and middle name) may be combined with husband's surname. Triangle—Jane Rogers Noyes. Groom's initial at the top. Bride's maiden initials at bottom.

An Old English letter is important enough to use with single surname initial.

There is a new style of monogram called elongated block —JRN—Jane Rogers Noyes—her first Christian name initial, her maiden surname initial and her married surname initial.

There is a script letter monogram where the initials entwine each other, usually her married surname initial is in the center and her first Christian name initial is on one side and her maiden surname initial on the other. The middle initial may or may not be larger than the others.

Table linen, bed linen, bath linen and the bride's personal items may all be monogrammed. The monogram itself may be as simple or as elaborate as the bride likes, but simplicity is al­ways a good rule. Bedroom and bathroom linen and the per­sonal items can be quite informal. Table linens (like glass and silver) are more formal in their markings than bath or bed linens. Bedroom and bathroom linens are marked with the ini­tials of the bride—her first initial, surname initial of her maiden name, and the initial of her married name. When linen is ac­quired during the years of marriage, it should be marked with the initials of both the husband and wife. While the bath linen is informal, a single name is not the preferred form of marking. Amusing or "cute" ideas should be avoided except in kitchen linen. Monograms or initials or nothing should be the rule. Bath linens may be monogrammed by machine embroidery (as well as kitchen linens) but all other linen should be embroidered by hand. While a white monogram on any white linen is always good, color may be used to pick up the color scheme of the room or to match sheets. Something new in marking linens—letters embroidered with metallic threads and letters appliquéd on in contrasting fabric.

A monogram adds to the beauty of a plain or damask table cloth but not to an embroidered or lace one. Monograms are em­broidered and a square one looks best in line with the edge of the table; irregular monograms should be at the corner. They are set midway between the center of the table and the side or corner. Napkins may be monogrammed in the center or in the corner, sometimes straight but usually cross-cornered.

In marking sheets, place the base of the letters toward the hem at half the depth to which the sheet will be turned back. In mark­ing pillow cases, place the monogram half-way between the edge of the case and the beginning of the pillow.

Towels should be marked so that folded and hanging on a rack the marking is centered.

The bride's personal items—lingerie, blouses, handkerchiefs, cigarette cases, handbag or overnight case fittings, may be marked in any way she likes. First name, nickname, initials, monogram, all are acceptable and may be in any type of letter she wishes.

The bride's luggage should be marked with her married ini­tials. Be sure to have all luggage plainly marked for identification purposes.

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